The concerts of Balkan Rock Legends
by Snezana Bukal, writer, Amsterdam
Balkan Rock Legends in Amsterdam
by Chris Keulemans, writer and journalist, Amsterdam
The concerts of Balkan Rock Legends
by Snezana Bukal, writer, Amsterdam


Ever since I went to the concerts of the Balkan Rock Legends in Amsterdam, I am looking for words with which to express what I had witnessed. But the text keeps eluding me, it is constantly coming together and falling apart, and every time I try to write something I end up where I started.

So tonight I finally started to ponder on what is the cause of the problem I apparently have with writing something about it. Looking for possible reasons, I felt there must be something there but I couldn't lay a finger on it. Eventually I figured I must be tired because when the band left the stage, I wasn't able to let go and the concerts carried on playing the music in my mind.

And the thing is, when I went to see the second concert, I was reconciled with the likelihood of it being nothing like the first one. Which is to say, that's what life had taught me: happy and beautiful things are little miracles. And miracles per definition only happen once. But right from the beginning I realized the second concert was another little miracle. When the singer Vlado Morrison came rushing to the stage, his performance left us breathless. To me, he demonstrated that it is the right of every human being to fall because if you fall you can stand up and fly again. If one knows how to fly. With other words, Vlado had shown to me that falling and flying are just two ways of being present in the space. It was incredible to feel we all can move around freely and happily, sing along, dance, scream, laugh and cry, and do whatever we feel like, because such was the atmosphere that Vlado and the band had generated: it was like an out of the ordinary place was created by playing this music which belongs to a certain generation of people who were incredibly lucky to be a part of it, and who are aware of the fact that this music was and is making (world music) history.

But to me, an even more important reason for why we all still love this music so much is because we feel it posses the power to fulfil us. And so I strongly disagree with those who insist it is (only) our nostalgia which empowers Vlado's singing. Moreover, Vlado's power lies in his passion for music and in his ability to take complete control of the scene, the stage as well as the audience, from the beginning to the end of the concert.
The other part of this story is, who wouldn't enjoy hearing the songs whose lines one knows by heart and can recite even if awoken in the middle of the night. And on top of that, it was just so refreshing to be surrounded by people who speak (one of) your language(s), so an almost unimaginable thought occurred to me during the concert: I am here in a huge crowd of people and I like it. This amassing of positive human energy crammed in one place must make one think, wouldn't you agree?

What I also noticed was that I was paying more attention to the texts of the songs that I always knew but evidently never thought about. In the light of today some of them seem almost prophetic, and some remained as cautionary as they always were. And some were painfully bulldozed by time! The latter is also the reason why I felt uncomfortable listening to ''Plamene zore'' (from the song “Maljciki” by Idoli), I just could not listen to it the way I used to. The words of this song don't make me happy anymore and I can't sing and jump and dance to it as I did years ago. This song brings back memories, which are now too painful to bear. Like the fact, that I was partying in Belgrade while in the backstage of those present-days the bloody history was already in the making, and I failed to see it. Instead, I was busy having fun and sharing in the happiness of everyone at the party while listening to this and other similar idolatries. But what the hell. In the same token, I have deeply conflicted feelings for Bora Corba (the singer of Riblja Corba). Because I truly love(d) their music but nowadays whenever I listen to it, the whole experience is tainted. When his face emerges in front of my eyes and I bring to mind his well-known ideological convictions, I literally get sick to my stomach and feel this urge to scream, to shout to the public and those on the stage: Enough! But as I said, what the hell.

At the end of the day however, everything I wrote presents an opportunity for opening up many new spaces to think, in a different way. And considering the fact that right now I most of the time feel better when I don't think, I hereby promise I will continue this story when grey and rainy autumn days arrive.

Snezana Bukal, writer, Amsterdam
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Balkan Rock Legends in Amsterdam

by Chris Keulemans
writer and journalist, Amsterdam


Rock music in other languages than English always sounds silly, amateuristic and sweetly provincial. When I hear French or Italian or Norwegian bands playing their hearts out, I can always understand that local crowds will go wild, but to an outsider they sound like grown men who were not brave enough to go for their boyhood dream, to be a real rocker, and settled for second best instead. I love certain Dutch-speaking rock bands, but this is a kind of chummy love, not high admiration.

To this rule, rock in former Yugoslavia was the exception. I have never been in the country before the war, but now that I know the divided territories well, I wish I had known the original thing. I wish I had lived in Belgrade, Zagreb or Sarajevo in the early eighties. The sense of irony about a failing, crumbling system, the pride of living somehow in the most independent country in the world, the excitement of finding open spaces for art and ideas where old structures where falling away, the natural and equal connections to the outside world – in a strange way, I have become a kind of Yugo-nostalgic all on my own. Not because I idealize that vanished country, but because I have the impression that counterculture was at its best there: not free from real risk and tough opposition, but stubborn and idealistic and funny enough to claim space for real new ideas.

So when my friends Mileta Prodanovic (Belgrade) and Nino Zalica and Edo Barak (Sarajevo/Amsterdam) introduced me to the bands of those days, I immediately heard how Serbo-Croatian was a natural language for rock 'n' roll and new wave music. I still don't speak the language, but the titles and song lines that my friends translated to me gave proof of imagination, defiance and wit. Bands like Azra, Zabranjeno Pusenje, Bijelo Dugme, Partibrejkers and Idoli give me an exciting echo of a time when anything was possible, anything but the nightmare that followed.

Last Saturday, these sounds came alive in Amsterdam. An old school building in an unfashionable part of the city, turned into a kind of international laboratorium, with reggae soundsystems in one corner and Tibetan self-awareness groups in the other, opened its main hall to the Balkan Rock Legends and a crowd of over five hundred fans streaming in from all across Holland. And the strange thing was: nostalgia boomed from front to back and left to right, but this was nostalgia with no bitter or rancid aftertaste. Judging as an outsider, I did not sense the self-pity or self-importance that often accompanies nostalgia, especially the ex-Yu kind. There was neither a tragic sense over youth lost and country vanished, neither any kind of nationalistic glorifying of victimhood. That is the kind of nostalgia that I have witnessed enough to understand it, even when I don't know the language, and I am allergic to it. This Saturday night it was nowhere to be found.

The crowd was younger on average than I had expected: not only fortysomethings who have clear and active memories of the early eighties, but also kids in their twenties who were barely born when many of these songs became popular. Many of these people have grown up in Holland and settled in here, others are still struggling to find their place, most have probably found some kind of balance between Holland and whatever part of former Yugoslavia they come from. But however long they have lived here, they distinctly kept their old style – this typical mix of Italian glam and Western slack, slightly outdated to our eyes but undeniably cool – and, most amazing, almost everybody knew almost every song by heart. All around me, I saw faces lit up with excitement and deep recognition, fists in the air, voices shouting all the lyrics with sheer joy, defying whatever has come to lie between them and the excitement of the days when these songs became popular.

The band was admirably tight and professional, without displaying the usual self-mockery routine of veteran reunion bands. Sergej Kreso was drumming precisely and guided the band through all the different styles, from hard-rock to reggae to power ballads. And he was the only one with short hair. Zoran Serbedzija on guitar and Dario Trobok on bass looked like old-fashioned long-haired guitar heroes, but performed with the energy of hungry kids. And the lead singer, Vlado Morrison, combined the hollow eyes and deep lines in his face of Iggy Pop with the forever skinny sexy body of that guy from the Black Crowes. Somehow, he was the perfect singer for the occasion: a powerful high voice, prancing and gesturing to the crowd, macho but modest enough not to become a caricature of himself. He performed neckbreaking antics on the wobbly tables that were his catwalk into the crowd. One after the other, all the classic songs came by, and where some sounded to me like a naïve mix of English cool and German pathos, all of them had the instantly catchy hooks and melodies that seem typical of the ex-Yu rock I know. Instant sing-alongs, all of them.

And then the guest star of the night was announced: Elvis J. Kurtovich, the front man of the New Primitives from Sarajevo. I had never heard or seen him before, and he was different from anything I had expected. In the middle of these long-haired rockers, he appeared in a grey suit, sunglasses, short grey hair, withdrawn and slightly awkward in his movements on stage. The crowd cheered, Vlado and the others granted him all the space he needed, but he didn't seem to be interested in the starring role of crowdpleaser. Instead, he sang a few songs in an unremarkable dry voice, retreated back into the shadow and took his time to step back into the spotlights again. Still, it was undeniable that there was some kind of enigma around this guy. Something true to his original principles, when he – as my friends tell me – was an inspirational figure not because he spearheaded popular music, but instead deconstructed and ridiculized it. Every now and then, he stepped up to the microphone to singspeak clearly ironical, dry and witty monologues. All around me, people listened in concentration and cracked up about the apparently unmistakeable jokes that only he knows how to make. To an evening that was already clearly on the safe side of false sentiments, he firmly personified the message: take all of this very seriously, but never take it seriously at all.

Chris Keulemans
writer and journalist, Amsterdam

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